Than Marrakech and Fez, Meknes is a little more laid back and smaller yet this imperial city has charms as similar. Highlights include a medina which is wonderfully preserved and filled with souqs that without a guide is easy to navigate. Built in the 17th Century by the powerful Moulay Ismail, The Imperial City is a showcase of Moroccan architecture complete with impressive carvings and huge gates. Also well worth a trip are the nearby Roman ruins of Volubilis.
Also called the Versailles of Morocco, but it was never completed the grand scheme for a royal palace. Nowadays, the city is the centre of a producing olives, productive area, wine, citrus and cereal crops.
Imperial city
The royal palace is filling a considerable part of the old city, which is not among the finest in Morocco. During the rule of Sultan Moulay Ismail, the palace was erected who reigned for 55 years (1672-1727). One believes that he had around 30,000 people killed during this period, he was a true tyrant, but if you include the ones killed in his battles he conducted, the figures are far higher. He has a motto: “My subjects are like rats in a basket, and if I don’t shake the basket, they will gnaw their way out.”
Despite having great interest in building, Ismail never succeeded in making Meknes the great imperial city he planned it to be. By its feeling of emptiness, Meknes has for always been stamped. Located on the other side of the gorge, not even the newer French city, that divides the city in two halves, managed to change this.
For 55 years, Moulay Ismail ruled Morocco until his death in 1727. Mainly Christian, tens of thousands slaves kidnapped from European villages as far north as Iceland by Moroccan pirates, died and worked to complete the more than 20 gates, 50 palaces and a city wall 45 km long. Meknes is still a city quite possible to cover in a day, even much of Moulay Ismail’s concepts have survived the centuries.
Bab el-Mansour
The grand gate is the most impressive elements of the imperial city was named after the architect, El-Mansour, a renegade of Christian who converted to Islam. After Moulay Ismail’s death, in the next 5 years was completed in 1732.
The gate design plays with Almohad patterns. It has zellij mosaics of excellent quality. The marble columns were taken from the Roman ruins of Volubilis. The story tells that Moulay Ismail inspected the gate when completed, asking El-Mansur if he could do better. To answer yes, El-Mansur felt complied that is making the sultan so furious he had him executed. According to historical records, the gate was finished after Moulay Ismail’s death. Now, the gate is used as a crafts and arts galley and the entry is by a side gate.
Koubba el-Khayatine
This was for foreign ambassador’s reception hall. There are shafts leading down to a huge crypt, next to the entrance, which may have been a dungeon for Christian slaves or a granary. Open every day, admission is 10 dh, time open 9.00-12.00 and 15-18.00. This has also be referred as Koubbat as-Sufara.
Moulay Ismail Mausoleum
Moulay Ismail is highly revered by Moroccans themselves. His mausoluem is ranked as an Islamic sight. It is the only one in Morocco, which accepts this category of visitors, are open to non-Muslims. Anyone can enter are fortunately highly rewarding esthetically. Although helped by the long time passing, ethics may be different issue, thousands people died from the brutal hand of the regime of Moulay Ismail. Being a shrine, local women frequent the place seeking good blessings, baraka by touching predefined spots. Open every day except Friday, 8.30-12.00 and 14-18.00. Admission is free.
Dar el-Makhzen
Moulay Ismail were built several royal palaces, but the one until modern times which has survived best is the Dar el-Makhzen. Today although the king rarely travels to Meknes, it is still being used as a royal palace. The Dar el-Kebira, the other main palace, meaning nothing less than “large”, in the earthquake in 1755 was destroyed which even brought the centre of Lisbon down. The Dar el-Makhzen is out of bounds because of its present-day use, but through gates of its crumbling walls, parts of it can be seen.
Heri es-Souani
It was the granaries of Moulay Ismail, quite giganting in their scale. The granaries stored hay and grain to feed the 12,000 royal horses. The granaries have tiny windows and massive walls, creating cool storage conditions effectively. Restorations are ongoing, and has been reconstructred to be used as a film location. The most famous, Perhaps is Martin Scorcese’s The Last Temptation of Christ from 1988. Open all days, Admission is 10dh, open from 9.00-12.00 and 15-18.30.
To be continued here
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